Fifteen years ago, Marvin Johnson became an oyster shucker. He was working at the Maryland Inn, catering a party when a manager said they were short on shuckers. Mr. Johnson said he didn't hesitate. He stared into the crates of oysters on ice, grabbed a knife and shucked away. "I'd never done it before, but they didn't have anyone to do it," Mr. Johnson said.

Although the Annapolis resident had never even picked up one of the shellfish in his life, he took to shucking like an oyster to bay water. Today, he is a fixture at McGarvey's Saloon and is considered by many in the local restaurant industry to be the best oyster shucker in Annapolis.

"When I first did it, I thought 'This is really hard.' But I did it again for a few more days and I got the hang of it," Mr. Johnson said.

A different method

Mr. Johnson says he uses a different method than most when shucking: he holds the oyster in his hand, then plunges the knife into the back of the shell. Most shuckers hold the oyster down on a flat surface, then plunge the knife into the shell.

"For me it's quicker holding it in my hand, but also a little more dangerous," Mr. Johnson said. His hand bears the marks of years of knicks with an oyster knife.

Mr. Johnson said he has two prime directives when shucking, always rinse off the oysters and always wear gloves.

"Wear gloves. I've never had a stab wound where I had to go to a doctor and gloves are part of that."

His personal record for oyster shucking is about two dozen in two minutes.

For the past year, Mr. Johnson has been the head prep cook at McGarvey's Saloon on Market Street. Born and raised in Annapolis, Mr. Johnson started in the hospitality industry as a dish washer and busboy at the Maryland Inn. At 24, he went to McGarvey's, working as an assistant sous chef, prep cook and eventually head prep cook.

"I'm what you'd call a do-it-all utility person," Mr. Johnson said. "I'll still bus tables or wash, shuck oysters, whatever the restaurant needs."

It's a point of pride for Mr. Johnson that while working as a prep cook, he's never heard a complaint from the night crew.

"The day person working is the key to prepping everything for the night crew," Mr. Johnson said. "I make sure to have all the right soups and foods prepared."

Helping the community

McGarvey's owner, Mike Ashford, said Mr. Johnson is a great employee, but that his influence also extends into the community.

"He's a saint, he does a lot of things for at-risk kids," he said. "He does things quietly, no fanfare, no self promotion. He is a great influence on the community."

At the recent Mardi Gras 2000 celebration, Mr. Johnson had a chance to flex his oyster shucking muscles for an audience. He won the oyster shucking semifinals at Copeland's of New Orleans, but lost at the finals on March 5 in a contest that is still hotly debated.

Mr. Johnson initially was declared winner of the oyster shucking contest. But event organizer Clare Vanderbeek, marketing director of the Annapolis and Anne Arundel Conference and Visitors Bureau, said the master of ceremonies forgot that a "shuck off" between the two finalists was to determine the champion.

"It was a real unfortunate mistake because they were both fine competitors," she said.

Mr. Johnson lost to Wilson Curtis, a shucker from the Eastern Shore brought in to represent the Wyndham Garden Hotel. But he accepted the judge's decision in good humor.

"The Mardi Gras was fun. A mistake was made and I accepted the judgment. It wasn't worth making a scene, but I'm disappointed," Mr. Johnson said.

The next generation

He said his oyster shucking days are mostly behind him, and that he is trying to pass on his skills to a generation that seems reluctant to learn.

"I wish young people would pick up the trade. Oyster shuckers are a dying breed and it's good easy money," Mr. Johnson said.

Mr. Johnson said in the past he has made up to $150 dollars for several hours work shucking oysters for private parties and restaurants.

"If you really want to learn, call up a restaurant and ask the oyster shucker if they have some time to teach, it wouldn't take very long," Mr. Johnson said.

Shucking all those oysters, you would think Mr. Johnson loves shellfish. But although he has shucked thousands of oysters in his lifetime, Mr. Johnson has never eaten one of them.

"I really don't like seafood. I'll eat some fish, but oysters, No."

Published 03/21/00, The Capital, Annapolis, Md.
Copyright 2000 The Capital, Annapolis, Md.

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